EMMET COUNTY, Mich. — Chuck and his team take us on a bucket list trip to the majesty, mystery and fun of beautiful Northern Michigan.
"Iconic" is probably an overused word. But when it comes to Northern Michigan, there are several sites that fit the word perfectly. The 129 lighthouses, the legendary Grand Hotel, and the moving, active dunes of Silver Lake qualify as iconic and so does the famed Tunnel of Trees.
Nestled along Lake Michigan on M-119 between Harbor Springs and Cross Village, this breathtaking, narrow, 20-mile stretch of road runs along sharp twists, jaw-dropping views and beautiful hardwoods that literally cover the highway — thus the tunnel.
Tunnel of Trees
Producer Megan Simpson, photojournalist Steve Rhodes and I were excited about travelling on this historic stretch of road, especially to get a look at the changing leaves and the spectacular vistas. We went on a weekday, when there weren't as many cars on this slow, curve-filled roadway. We saw it all, from deer taking a peek at passing motorists to the emerging of brilliant colors near Lake Michigan. Without question, the trip is worth it if you only take in the majesty of creation in your hour long trip...but if you stop, you'll experience a whole new level of appreciation for this region and its people.
Good Hart General Store
Heading north out of Petoskey, we stopped at the world-famous Good Hart General Store, and we were so glad we did. It's like something out of a film about America at a different time. Locals pick up their mail, get their groceries, chew the fat with neighbors and enjoy some of the best homemade chicken or beef pot pies you'll ever eat.
The current store was built in 1934, and Ami Woods, who was running things the day we visited with her dad, Jim, says it's a must stop for many.
"I mean, everybody likes to stop. It's always a highlight," Woods said. "The cool thing is that we always get people who come back year after year, and they are really active on social media, they share their pictures, they share their memories, and they want to pet the dogs and see my Mom and Dad."
Oh yes...the dogs. We enjoyed meeting the store's welcoming crew: three happy dogs, including two unusual-looking Royal Bahamian potcake dogs. These pooches were brought to the U.S. after Hurricane Irene, and they have found a home in Northwest Michigan. They are especially loved by store owner Jim Sutherland, who likes to sit outside, welcome people and find out where they are from. If you are a veteran, Jim gives you a firm handshake, a thanks for your service and a free cookie or cup of coffee.
To him, his store is located in the perfect location — the amazing Tunnel of Trees.
"I think that, especially with what's going on in the world today, especially in this country, people want to get away, number one," Sutherland said. "They want to be where it's peaceful, it's quiet, there's nobody bugging them. This is the place."
Jim and Ami were wonderful hosts, and they INSISTED we have a pot pie and cookie before we left. We did, and it was a great meal.
Three Pines Studio
Our next stop at the Tunnel was the Three Pines Studio, a lovely place that has made a name for itself in the region due to its fascination with glass blown pumpkins.
We met owner Joann Condino at a difficult time. Her husband had only recently passed away, but she was there with her loving and supportive staff, keeping things going for tourists, local artists and us.
Her autumn specialty is glass pumpkins.
"Most of the year, we have two blowers in the area, and 11 years ago, we started the Great Lakes Glass Pumpkin Patch," Joann said. "Consequently, it's become a thing, it’s an event and people love coming to an event."
The pumpkin festival is the highlight of her year. Joann told me of a little boy, who, holding on tightly to a glass pumpkin, said that pumpkin was his first piece of art. Stories like that bring this beautiful gallery close to the heart.
Three Pines Studio
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, her business was down nearly 50 percent, but they have survived by selling the pumpkins and putting together art kits for people to work on at home.
Did I mention Carina? This beautiful Springer greets every guest at the Gallery, and she won't turn down a treat.
Our Tunnel of Trees trip was a beautiful memory but not just because of the beautiful scenery — it was the beautiful people that brought this storied roadway to life.
Legs Inn
There is an old saying in the Channel 13 newsroom: there is a Hoosier connection everywhere.
While on our Chuck's Big Adventure, we met an Indiana University grad who has a connection to one of Northern Michigan's most unusual restaurants and a must-visit for any trip to this area.
Mark Smolak and his brother, Chris, run one of the state's most iconic eating establishments with their parents, George and Kathy: Legs Inn. This unique eatery is on the end of M-119, also known as the scenic "Tunnel Of Trees." Stone on the outside and wood on the inside, this unique restaurant features stove legs on the roof — thus Legs Inn — and has been open during the late spring, summer and early fall for generations.
The decor is one-of-a-kind: a log cabin motif with tributes to the Odawa Indians, who settled this area meshed in a strange but wonderful way with Polish heritage. There are plenty of Legs Inn gift items to take home too.
The Smolak family settled here in 1921 and began construction then, and opened this place featuring delicious Polish cuisine. People keep coming back.
"We literally see now, third and fourth generation families showing up as you do in a lot of places here in Northern Michigan," Mark said.
COVID-19 has had a major impact on the 2020 Legs Inn season. Usually, 18 international students work at the restaurant every season, but because of entry restrictions, a smaller staff has worked shorter hours. The restaurant had to close two days a week rather than stay open seven days, and the season ended Oct. 18.
Despite all that, Mark says the restaurant was still busy this season as lines formed most days prior to opening.
"What's interesting is this year, we are seeing a record number of first-time visitors coming out," Mark said. "So, there's almost this different contingent of traveler, who's staying either more local or exploring different parts, so we're getting a large number of people that have come here for the first time."
It's not unusual to see folks wait in line for more than an hour to sample the traditional Polish food. By the way, the favorite on the menu is the taste of Poland featuring kielbasa, pierogi and cabbage rolls.
George and Kathy worked the restaurant for 33 years, and Mark said that half of his employees drive 30 miles or more one-way to go to work because they love it so much.
I loved it all: the unusual décor and history, the eccentric façade on the outside and the food and friendliness you can't help but take in.
Legs Inn will open next spring, so add it to your bucket list.