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It's as much fun to watch hand-pulled noodles created as it is to eat them

Chef Zhang learned how to make these traditional noodles in Lanzhou, China.

NEW YORK — Noodles are one of the most popular food dishes in Chinatowns across America.

As we discovered in our Spirit of China series, some of the most enjoyable noodles start with a show in the kitchen.

In New York City's Chinatown, 44-year-old chef Zhang makes hand-pulled noodles at Lanzhou Ramen Restaurant which is located on 107 East Broadway.

Pulling, twisting and swinging the dough are all part of the performance.

In 2001, Zhang said he became the first person in New York City to do the Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles.

"There are more than 50 styles of noodles in mainland China," said chef Zhang. "When I was 15, I traveled around China. I went to Lanzhou, China which is known for hand-pulled noodles. I was looking for a master to teach me. This style dates to the 1800s," said Zhang.

"I was very gifted at making noodles and I like eating noodles. So, it should be my profession," said chef Zhang.

"How I prepare also depends on the weather," said Zhang. "Hot and humid weather can affect the dough. I can feel that when I use my hands. If you experience a hand-pulled noodle master, as soon as I touch the dough and start pulling it, I will feel it. The finished product needs to be chewy. The noodles need to be even. They cannot be broken. Once I pull it with my hands, it's like a conversation between me and the dough," said chef Zhang.

"There's a very subtle taste difference between hand-pulled noodles and noodles made by a machine. The machine-made noodles can taste chewy or hard. Hand-pulled noodles are softer," said chef Zhang.

"Everybody has their own taste. But I believe in my skills. I have many returning customers who say, 'I miss your flavor, I can't go somewhere else. I have to come back here,'" said chef Zhang.

The "Spirit of China" series highlights the culture of Chinese-Americans across the United States. Learn about the people, the history and the challenges of Chinatowns in Chicago, New York and San Francisco while the world focuses on the Winter Olympics in Beijing.

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